NEWS

Edomae shari is judged by its warmth, the way it yields in the mouth and its vinegar blend. A guide to temperature, firmness and vinegar at the counter.

How to book and enjoy a solo seat at a Tokyo omakase counter: why single places last longest, when to speak, how to order sake, plus August fish.

When to ask a question at a sushi counter, how to phrase it, how to reword the awkward ones, plus how much to say. A calm guide to Edo-style omakase.

Autumn sushi is led by fat. How sanma is judged raw or cured, how ikura is steeped from the roe sac, plus the return-run bonito of September to November.

Zuke maguro is tuna steeped in nikiri soy, a keeping method born in old Edo. How the marinade is built, how minutes change the fish, which cuts suit it.

An omakase moves from light to rich, white fish through to tamago. Here is why each piece sits where it does, plus what the order quietly reveals.

After the last piece of sushi, a few quiet minutes in the tea room with matcha and a seasonal sweet: how ma and yoin shape the end of a meal.

Why some shari blends akazu with rice vinegar, how two salts shape sweetness then a clean finish, plus temperature, texture and July at the counter.

Ike-shime, neuro-shime and the Tsumoto bloodletting method: how fish reaches an eight-seat Tokyo counter, gilled and gutted, sealed and sent chilled.

How to think about dress and arrival time at a Tokyo omakase counter, why scent is kept light, why booking times matter, plus photograph etiquette.